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The Florida Quest

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Saturday, October 27, 2001

St. Augustine's back door

By Robert Ryals | News-Journal Correspondent

One of the big attractions in St. Augustine is the Castillo de San Marcos, the large fort that protected the city before the Revolutionary War. Often overlooked, however, is its main outpost, Fort Matanzas, located 12 miles south on the Matanzas River.

Back door fort
pic
Fort Matanzas was built in 1742 to guard the southern approach to St. Augustine. (N/J: Robert Ryals)

While the Castillo protected the city against assaults from the front, it had one weakness. Slipping in the Matanzas inlet and up the Matanzas River, ships could attack the Castillo from the south, while staying out of range of the fort's cannon.

Fort Matanzas was built to protect this back door. Acting as both a lookout and a fortification, ships would have to pass by the fort to take the back route into St. Augustine.

The fort proved its worth in 1742 when the cannons drove back English scout boats looking to move up the river. This was the only time the fort ever saw action.

Started as a series of wooden towers, the current fort was constructed from 1740 to 1742 out of coquina rock. After 1821, the fort fell into disrepair until it was designated a national monument in 1924.

It is a small fort, only 50 feet on each side with a 30-foot tower. Usually, six to 10 soldiers were stationed there.

Part of the charm of the tour is to see how the fort was ingeniously designed to deal with the hardships of Florida in the 1700s. The fort is three stories, with the top story or deck acting as a large water collection facility. Troughs lead down from the roof to a large cistern, which could hold up to 6,000 gallons of water.

The other two floors consist of living quarters for the officer and soldiers and storage facilities for ammunition and supplies.

The fort sits on Rattlesnake Island, which should be a hint not to wander off the tour. Getting there requires a free trip on the National Park Service Ferry. The ferry runs every hour with the one- way trip lasting about 40 minutes.

After arriving at the fort, the National Park Rangers give an informative 15-minute talk. It includes the role of the Spanish in the development of Florida and their assistance to the new country during the Revolutionary War.

The fort now stands watch over a thriving wildlife area, making a trip there a good way to commune with nature. Located on an estuary, the inlet is one of the few in North Florida not protected by a jetty. This allows tidal creeks to flood twice daily, providing food for birds and other wildlife. Dolphins are often spotted from the ferry during the trips over to the fort.

While St. Augustine usually gets most of the attention, it is worth a trip to visit Fort Matanzas National Monument to hang out for a while in the back yard.

How To Get There

Fort Matanzas National Monument is just off A1A, about 12 miles south of St. Augustine. From Granada Boulevard in Ormond Beach, go north on A1A for about 32 miles. Turn left at the large sign.

If You Go

* The fort and the ferry are free. Donations are accepted to help defray the costs of operating the ferry.

* The visitor center is open 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. daily except Christmas.

* The ferry runs from the visitor center to the fort on the hour from 9 a.m. through 4 p.m.

* The ferry ride and tour lasts about 40 minutes and visitors must return on the same ferry.

* There are no bathrooms at the fort; plan ahead.

What To Take

Balance: The signs at the docks remind visitors that the fort was built for war, not for safety. To get to the very top of the fort, you will need to be able to climb a wooden ladder through a small hole. It is not handicap accessible.

Bug spray: The fort was designed to repel the French. It was not designed to repel bugs. As a result, many non-French bugs make their home here. Use bug spray to take home only memories, not bumps.

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